Sandakan and the Kinabatangan River

If you came to Borneo for wildlife, this is where to go. Sandakan, on Sabah’s east coast, is the base for the Sepilok orangutan centre and its neighbours. A couple of hours inland, the Kinabatangan River winds through forest that’s home to proboscis monkeys, hornbills, crocodiles, wild orangutans and the Bornean pygmy elephant.

Why go

• The best wildlife viewing in Malaysia. You’re almost guaranteed to see a lot.
• Conservation in action. Rehabilitation centres let you see the work being done to protect Borneo’s animals.
• River life. Dawn and dusk boat trips on the Kinabatangan are unforgettable.

What to do

Sepilok

Sepilok, just outside Sandakan, has three places side by side, which makes for an easy full day:

• Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: Orphaned and rescued orangutans are taught to survive in the wild. Some come in to the feeding platform from the forest. There’s also a nursery area where you can watch younger orangutans through glass. Check the feeding times before you go.
• Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre: Rescued sun bears, the world’s smallest bear, living in forest enclosures you see from a viewing platform.
• Rainforest Discovery Centre: Forest trails and canopy towers and walkways, excellent for birdwatching.

Labuk Bay

A private proboscis monkey sanctuary in former mangrove land outside Sandakan, where the monkeys come in for feeding. It’s a guaranteed close-up view, though the river is better for seeing them in the wild.

Kinabatangan River cruises

Most people spend two or three nights at a riverside lodge near Sukau or Bilit. You go out by boat early in the morning and late in the afternoon, when animals are most active. Expect proboscis monkeys in the trees along the bank, macaques, hornbills, kingfishers and crocodiles. With luck you’ll spot wild orangutans or a herd of pygmy elephants. Many lodges also offer night walks or night cruises.

Sandakan town

The town has some interesting history. Sandakan Memorial Park marks the site of a WWII prisoner-of-war camp and the death marches that followed. Up the hill, Agnes Keith House is the restored home of the American writer who wrote about life here before the war.

Further afield

Gomantong Caves, on the way to the Kinabatangan, are home to huge numbers of swiftlets and bats. Turtle Islands Park, offshore from Sandakan, allows a limited number of overnight visitors to watch turtles nesting. Book well in advance.

Choosing a responsible operator

Pick lodges and guides that keep a respectful distance from animals, don’t feed wildlife, and support local communities. Avoid any experience that involves touching or holding animals.

Getting there and around

• By air: Fly to Sandakan from Kota Kinabalu or KL.
• By road: Buses and private transfers run between Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan, but it’s a long drive.
• Getting around: Sepilok is a short ride from Sandakan airport. Most Kinabatangan lodges sell packages that include transfers, meals and boat trips.
• Passports: Bring your passport, since Sabah runs its own immigration checks.

Where to stay

Stay at Sepilok for the orangutan, sun bear and forest centres, then two or three nights at a lodge on the Kinabatangan.

Compare places to stay in Sandakan and Sepilok Browse Kinabatangan tours

When to go

You can visit all year, but the drier months, roughly March to October, are more comfortable. Heavy rain at the end of the year can raise the river. Pygmy elephant sightings depend on where the herds are moving, so ask your lodge.

Also in Sabah: Kota Kinabalu and climbing Mount Kinabalu.