Kuching

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Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, is one of the most pleasant cities in Malaysia. It’s small, green and easy-going, with a historic waterfront on the Sarawak River and a food scene all of its own. The real bonus is how close the wild stuff is: orangutans, proboscis monkeys and rainforest are all within a short drive.

Why go

Borneo without the effort. National parks and wildlife centres are a day trip from a comfortable city base.
The food. Sarawak laksa, kolo mee and layered cakes you won’t find done the same way anywhere else.
The vibe. Quiet, friendly and slower than the big cities on the peninsula.

What to do

The waterfront and old town

Walk the riverside promenade, especially around sunset. Across the river you’ll see the golden-roofed State Legislative Assembly building and Fort Margherita, built during the era of the “White Rajahs”, the Brooke family who ruled Sarawak for about a century. Cross the river on the Darul Hana pedestrian bridge, or take a tambang, a small wooden boat that ferries people across.

Behind the waterfront, Main Bazaar, Carpenter Street and India Street are lined with old shophouses, temples and handicraft shops. Keep an eye out for the cat statues around town. Kuching sounds a lot like kucing, the Malay word for cat, and the city has leaned into it.

Borneo Cultures Museum

A big, modern museum on Sarawak’s peoples, history and crafts. It’s a good introduction before you head out into the state.

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

Semi-wild orangutans live in the forest reserve here and often come in to the feeding platforms. Sightings aren’t guaranteed, especially when there’s lots of wild fruit around, but your chances are good. Check the current feeding times before you go.

Bako National Park

Sarawak’s oldest national park sits on a peninsula reached by boat from Kampung Bako. Trails lead through several kinds of forest to beaches and cliffs, and it’s one of the best places to see proboscis monkeys. You can do it as a day trip or stay overnight in the park lodge.

Sarawak Cultural Village

A living museum at Damai, near the coast, with traditional longhouses of Sarawak’s different ethnic groups, plus craft demos and dance shows. The area also hosts the Rainforest World Music Festival. Mount Santubong rises right behind it if you fancy a tough hike.

What to eat

Dish	What it is
Sarawak laksa	Rice noodles in a spiced coconut and sambal broth with prawns, chicken and omelette. The local breakfast
Kolo mee	Springy egg noodles tossed in shallot oil, topped with char siu and minced pork
Kek lapis Sarawak	Colourful layered cake, often with patterns. A popular gift to take home
Ayam pansuh	Chicken cooked in bamboo over a fire, from the Iban community
Midin	Crunchy jungle fern, usually stir-fried with garlic or belacan
Teh C peng special	A three-layer iced tea with palm sugar, evaporated milk and tea

Getting there and around

By air: Kuching International Airport has flights from KL, other Malaysian cities and Singapore.
Passports: Sarawak runs its own immigration checks, so bring your passport even on a domestic flight.
Getting around: The old town and waterfront are walkable. Use Grab for further trips, or join a tour for Bako and Semenggoh if you don’t want to sort out boats and buses.

Where to stay

Stay near the waterfront so the old town, food and river are all on your doorstep.

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When to go

Kuching gets plenty of rain all year, and it’s heaviest roughly from November to February. The middle of the year is usually drier, which makes boat trips to Bako easier. The Rainforest World Music Festival and the Gawai harvest festival around the start of June are good times to visit.

Going to Sabah too? See our guide to Kota Kinabalu.