Ipoh

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Ipoh used to be a tin-mining boom town, and the wealth from that era left behind a handsome old town of shophouses and colonial buildings. Today it’s a relaxed, slower-paced city that Malaysians mostly visit for one reason: to eat. It’s an easy train ride from Kuala Lumpur, so it works well as a stop on the way to Penang.

Why go

The food. Ipoh has a reputation as one of Malaysia’s food capitals, and it’s well earned.
The old town. Restored shophouses, street art and laid-back cafés, all walkable.
The limestone hills. Dramatic karst hills ring the city, and many of them have temples built right into the caves.

What to do

Old town and the murals

Wander the old town on foot. Look for the murals painted by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic (the same artist behind some of Penang’s famous ones), plus plenty of others added since. Concubine Lane is a narrow, restored lane of shops and snacks. It’s busy and touristy, but fun.

Cave temples

The hills south and north of the city hide several Buddhist and Taoist cave temples. Perak Tong, Sam Poh Tong and Kek Lok Tong are the best known. Each feels different: Perak Tong has a steep climb to a viewpoint, while Kek Lok Tong opens out onto a peaceful garden and lake at the back.

Kellie’s Castle

An unfinished mansion near Batu Gajah, a short drive from Ipoh, built by a Scottish planter in the early 1900s. It’s half ruin, half restored, and full of ghost stories.

The railway station

Ipoh’s grand white railway station is sometimes called the “Taj Mahal of Ipoh”. It’s worth a look even if you arrive by road.

What to eat

Dish	What it is
Ipoh white coffee	Coffee beans roasted with margarine, served sweet and milky. The city’s signature drink
Bean sprout chicken	Poached chicken with fat, crunchy local bean sprouts. Ipoh’s water is said to be the secret
Kai si hor fun	Silky flat rice noodles in a light prawn-and-chicken broth
Salt-baked chicken	Whole chicken wrapped in paper and baked in salt. A popular takeaway
Dim sum	Ipoh does a big, busy dim sum breakfast
Taufu fa	Soft, sweet soybean pudding

Getting there and around

By train: The ETS train from KL Sentral is the easiest way in, and it carries on north to Butterworth for Penang.
By bus: Express buses run from KL and most other major towns.
Getting around: The old town is walkable. For cave temples and Kellie’s Castle, use Grab.

Where to stay

Stay in or near the old town so you can walk to the food. There are plenty of small boutique hotels in converted shophouses.

Compare hotels in Ipoh

When to go

Ipoh is hot year-round, with afternoon rain common. Weekends get busy with visitors from KL, so food queues are longer. Go on a weekday if you can.

Heading north next? Ipoh pairs nicely with Penang or the Cameron Highlands.