Gunung Mulu National Park

Gunung Mulu National Park, deep in the rainforest of northern Sarawak, is one of the most remarkable places in Malaysia. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for enormous caves, including some of the largest cave passages and chambers in the world, plus the jagged limestone Pinnacles and pristine forest. There are no roads in, so you fly, which only adds to the sense of adventure.

Why go

• The caves. Vast, spectacular and surprisingly easy to visit on guided walks.
• The bats. At dusk, huge numbers of bats stream out of Deer Cave in swirling ribbons.
• The rainforest. Untouched forest, rivers and wildlife all around the park headquarters.

What to do

The Show Caves

The park’s main caves are visited on guided tours along walkways:

• Deer Cave: One of the largest cave passages in the world. Its entrance frames a famous rock profile said to resemble Abraham Lincoln.
• Lang’s Cave: Smaller, with beautiful stalactites and stalagmites.
• Clearwater Cave: Part of one of the longest cave systems in Asia, with an underground river. Usually combined with Wind Cave on a boat trip that also stops at a local village.
• Wind Cave: Named for the cool breezes, with lovely formations.

The bat exodus

In the late afternoon, wait at the viewing area near Deer Cave to watch bats leave the cave to feed. It doesn’t happen every day (it depends on the weather), but when it does, it’s unforgettable.

Canopy skywalk

A long walkway through the treetops near park headquarters, great for birdwatching. Book ahead, as tours are limited.

Adventure caving

For more adventure, guided caving trips go deeper underground, including routes involving crawling, climbing and wading. The legendary Sarawak Chamber, one of the largest known cave chambers in the world, is a long, demanding trip for fit, experienced visitors only.

The Pinnacles

A tough multi-day trek: a boat ride, a jungle walk to a camp, then a very steep climb, with ladders and ropes near the top, to a field of razor-sharp limestone spires. Only for fit hikers, and it must be booked with the park well ahead.

Getting there and around

• By air: Mulu has a small airport near the park. Most flights come from Miri, with some connections from other Sarawak and Sabah cities.
• Passports: Sarawak runs its own immigration checks, so bring your passport.
• Getting around: The park headquarters is a short ride from the airport. From there, most caves are reached on foot along boardwalks, or by boat.
• Guides: You’ll need a park guide for most caves and trails. Book through the park.

Where to stay

Choose from accommodation at park headquarters (book early), a resort nearby, and small guesthouses just outside the park. Staying in or near the park makes early tours and the evening bat exodus easy.

What to pack

Light, quick-drying clothes, good walking shoes with grip, a rain jacket, a torch or headlamp, insect repellent and a reusable water bottle. Caves are damp, and the rainforest is very wet.

When to go

Mulu is rainforest, so it rains a lot whatever the time of year. Many visitors prefer the slightly drier middle of the year. Plan at least three nights to see the main caves without rushing.

Also in Sarawak: Kuching.